Good Clobber

Bold print shirts from Peter Werth

Sun, 19 May 2013 10:46:01 +0100

Showing off is never a good idea. However, balancing a bold pattern with an outfit can often be stiking in an elegant way. The shirts in this post are from Peter Werth, a British brand with some fine sartorial history, and these shirts certainly are bold.

This Haines Red Shirt will help you make a statement. It includes a bluff collar and a placket fly to conceal the buttons. Matched with a dark suit and tie it would serve as a good accent to the overall look. If you stare at it for a little while this pattern sort of makes your eyes go funny. £65 from Peter Werth.

This Radford Navy Shirt is the most expensive of the three featured here, at £80. It has a floral pattern of white on dark blue and on the inside of the placket and collar stand includes a similar pattern with a lighter blue background. It’s a clean, sophisticated look that is good fro spring and summer but I find dark shirts are less versatile when matching with trousers or a jumper that shirts based on white.

A tad more subtle that the other two shirts, The Henshall White Polka Dot Shirt includes something I’m always a big fan of; the button down collar. Nice little bit of detail included at the back of the shirt; a Peter Werth signature tab under the collar. However from the looks of it, this shirt doesn’t include a two-piece split yoke; a small refinement that helps match the pattern on the yoke with the front pieces. This shirt will set you back £60.

Head over to the Peter Werth website to see more.

Thanks to Peter Werth for the images.

What is a Blouson?

Thu, 02 May 2013 20:38:06 +0100

Here in the UK, the weather is beginning to improve; spring is in the air. With warmer temperatures it’s now not totally essential to layer-up every one goes outside and thoughts are turning to lightweight attire. When doing some research online into springtime jackets, I was reminded of the word ‘blouson’. It’s a term that my dad used a lot when I was younger and I never really understood what a ‘blouson’ was.

So then, what is a ‘blouson’?

The origin of the word ‘Blouson’ is probably from the French word ‘blouse’, first recorded in English in 1828… Now, ‘blouse’ sounds a bit girly to our modern ears, however in history, the word wasn’t gender specific: The meaning could come from “workman’s or peasant’s smock”. The derivation may also be from the Provençal dialect words for “wool”, blouso or “short wool”.

Men working in blouse-like garments in George Stubbs’ 1785 painting ‘Reapers’.

The Cambridge Dictionary says that a ‘Blouson’ is a “loose, short jacket that is worn on the upper body and fits tightly around the waist” and in modern parlance, this is what the term has come to mean: A very generic name for a jacket that fits these traits.

Blousons have many references in history; however it was the Second World War that helped form what we now recognise as this classic jacket shape. The ‘Eisenhower Jacket’ and ‘Bombardier Jacket’ or ‘Bomber Jacket’ are notable examples.

Think of it this way: A shirt tucked into your belt line and then pulled out slightly so it sits slightly out and over your waist, this is ‘blousing’. Typically, blousons fit more loosely around the torso than at the waist, where they are gathered or darted.

A firm favourite of this blog is the Harrington Jacket; a lightweight blouson with a soft, buttoned collar that can be raised.

Generally speaking, a Harrington jacket is gathered at the waist with an elasticated band. The Harrington Jackets featured here are from Baracuta and Ben Sherman – perfect for spring.

Of course, the blouson shape is not restricted to the Harrington Jacket, there are a great many numbers of variations including…

The Letterman or Varsity Jackets

Monkey Jackets

Bomber Jackets

And many types of leather jackets, flying jackets, packaways and much more.

Notable examples of blousons in popular culture are… Ryan Gosling’s shimmering driving jacket from DRIVE.

James Dean’s windcheater in REBEL WITHOUT A CAUSE.

And Walter White’s everyday attire in BREAKING BAD.

If you’re looking for a suitable additional layer for the spring, consider a blouson. As a very versatile piece of attire and with a huge array of choices, you’re sure to find something that works for you.

Thanks to the below for the images.

The Tate Britain, Classic Hollywood Central, UGO, One Mick Jones, Vice, Emen Fashion, La Redoute, Kitsune, Asos, Baracuta, Fred Perry, Ben Sherman and Peter Werth

Roamers Suede Desert Boots from Amazon A lot of the apparel featured on this blog is...

Sun, 14 Apr 2013 14:42:52 +0100

Roamers Suede Desert Boots from Amazon

A lot of the apparel featured on this blog is Mod-inspired. With this in mind, I am almost ashamed to admit that I have never owned a pair of classic suede Desert Boots; a staple footwear choice for Mods. However, the reasoning behind my decision in this is sound; I’m an advocate of long-lasting quality footwear, which is why I tend to exclusively buy leather footwear. Suede is easily ruined by water - making it not an ideal choice for the inclement weather that we experience for the best part of the year here in the UK.

However, I’ve been on the hunt for a cheap pair of desert suede boots with the thinking that, if they’re affordable, it won’t matter too much if they eventually get ruined - I can just buy another pair. The first result for ‘Desert Boots’ in Amazon heralded what I was looking for; classic suede desert boots for less than £30.

These boots are made by a brand called ‘Roamers’, which admittedly I’d never heard of. The Amazon retailer who sent them to me was ‘Shoesbyclair’ and cost £22, with a little bit extra for postage.

Within a week, my boots arrived. First impressions where good; they where the right shape and colour and fitted well, however I did avoid taking them out in the rain until they were throughly coated in suede protector spray (costs around £5 from your local cobbler).

The suede upper is soft and flexible; it feels re-enforced in the right places and the stitching is neat and tidy. This type of desert boot has a nice thick crepe sole, which gives you a little more cushioning than other desert boots I’ve seen, however I did fit my pair with an innersole just to give them a nice snug fit.

There’s an important point to make here about the crepe soles. I have previously owned a pair of ebony leather desert boots from Clarks; the apparent originator of the desert boot. I loved this pair of boots but after about six months they were rendered useless, because of the sole: After quite a lot of use, the sole of the Clarks desert boots wore smooth - it had no grip at all. There were quite a few incidents on wet pavements where I lost footing and almost stacked it! The crepe soles on this pair of boots seem to compensate for this issue; they are ridged and textured to provide some extra grip. Will this work and ensure that the sole doesn’t ware away? Only time will tell.

The boots depicted here are only about a week old and haven’t had a great deal of use yet. Suede does ruin easily when wet, so I am expecting them to deteriorate from their box-fresh state in a few months. However, they’re so affordable, I won’t mind picking up another pair as replacements… Judging by the reviews on Amazon, a lot of customers are employing the same strategy.

So there it is, a cheap pair of desert boots that look and feel good. I try not to promote ‘throw-away’ fashion and please don’t expect these to be the best pair of boots you’ll ever own; the price to a small extent does represent the quality, however on the whole I think they’re pretty good.

My pair of Desert Boots cost about £22 and are in ‘Sand’ colour, although you can also find them in brown, black bad blue. Check them out on Amazon here.

Commercial System of Cutting

Sun, 07 Apr 2013 16:12:30 +0100

To encourage my burgeoning interest in shirtmaking, a kind friend lent me this old Indian book on tailoring…

‘Commercial Systems of Cutting’ was published in 1981 in Bombay (now Mumbai) and is designed to teach the pattern-making, cutting and fabrication of garments. The instructions are a little bit complex and I have to say that I’ve not attempted to make anything from the book, however I thought I’d share some images with you as the illustrations are very quaint, retro and charming.

As well as recommending all the equipment and accoutrements that one may need to make a piece of clothing, the book also includes this neat little measuring scale.

As this book was printed in India over twenty-five years ago, most of the garments are rather old-fashioned and a lot of the measurements are in imperial units. However, the practise remains the same.

Notice the specifically India garments such as the Jodhpur Coat and Sherwani (the “national dress of India”).

Despite India becoming independent in 1947, there’s something rather ‘British Empire’ about the book.

I love these little menswear illustrations. Despite being slightly ‘cartoony’, you get a good idea of what your finished garment will look like.

My shirtmaking activities have taken a back seat throughout this cold, dark winter. However, I’m keen to finish off shirt number three. Keep your eyes on the blog and I’ll have an update soon.

Kin by John Lewis

Mon, 01 Apr 2013 11:02:00 +0100

Last month, long established and upmarket British department store, John Lewis, released a new clothing collection from their own creative team. According to Camilla Rowe, a spokesperson for the brand, ‘Kin’ is “not a seasonally trend-driven brand; it’s about modern, stylish pieces that you can get some sort of longevity from.” Kin is designed for the whole family; you’ll find items for men women and little ‘uns - but of course as this is a menswear blog, we’ll concentrate on the clobber for gents here.

I found the collection on the shop floor and the clothes caught my eye because of their simple elegance. The rain mack was the first item that I spotted and I was pleasantly surprised by the cost. Encouragingly, the tag line for the collection says it all; “Affordable, well designed, contemporary yet timeless; clothes for everyone.”… Without trying to be too much of a sucker for the marketing, this is a unifying ethos that I agree with.

Although designed in Britain, there are hints of scandinavian influence in the collection; lots of paired-down and edited styles create a create an overall subtle look. Tom Saunders from John Lewis, who helped create the brand explains that “the collection maintains a clean sophisticated handwriting throughout”.

As well as nice chinos, jackets and suit trousers, the collection also includes some accessories; a canvas gym bag, a rucksack and a tote that looks like a bit of a ‘man bag’.

Many of the shirts come in at around the £30 mark and look to be well made. Lots of them include button-down collars and, although the shirt collection includes a few rather ‘standard’ blue oxford weaves, there are some more interesting ideas such as this printed Foulard shirt; it’s not quite polka dot but rather has a red and blue pattern of squares and dots.

I don’t yet own anything by Kin, but John Lewis are reliable when it comes to quality and I gave some of the items a good look over; they look the business. Items start from as little as £7 (socks) and range up to around £160 for a suit. Find the full range of over one hundred items (women and children included) at the John Lewis store here.

Just as a little end note, a company called Farrow designed the branding for Kin. Check out the blog piece on their work here.

Thanks to John Lewis and Farrow for the images and to The Telegraph and GQ for the quotes.

Fred Perry Laurel Wreath Spring / Summer '13 - Graphic Design Influences

Sun, 17 Mar 2013 18:17:00 +0000

This week Fred Perry Laurel Wreath Menswear released their 2013 spring/summer collection. This season the design team looked to the British graphic art movement of the early 1980’s for inspiration.

The clothes are very nice (reflected by their quite high costs) but the context to their design is actually just as interesting as the items themselves… Here’s the background…

Neville Brody left the London College of Printing in 1979 and started working for a small record design agency that was involved with the post-punk music scene. His first piece of work can be seen int he image below; a 10” vinyl and slipcase for a band called The Motors.

Brody then went on to become Art Director of The Face; a British music, fashion and culture magazine which ran from 1980 and sadly closed in May 2004. The Face was an iconic magazine and has since been recognised as such by featuring in exhibitions at London’s Design Museum and the V&A Museum. Brody produced some of the most memorably layouts and covers for The Face, you can see them in images below.

This polo shirt from the collection seems to have something in common with Brody’s work, albeit a subtle connection. A direct translation of the layout probably wouldn’t work too well on a t-shirt.

Malcolm Garrett studied in Manchester in 1976 around the same time as The Sex Pistols and Buzzcocks were rising to prominence. Working with Buzzcocks, Garrett produced posters, record covers and logos for the punk band. Later, Garrett went on to work with Duran Duran, producing the recognisable cover to arguably Duran Duran’s biggest hit, Rio amongst other releases.

I think the below jumper is influenced by Malcolm Garett. Pink and grey is always a good combo. The design isn’t an exact reflection of the 80’s records, subtle updates make this garment more contemporary.

Peter Saville also studied in Manchester in the 70’s and met Tony Wilson, arguably an instigator of the British Punk scene and important figure in the Post Punk and New Wave movements that followed. Wilson was the mind behind Factory Records, it’s subsidiary venue The Hacienda and played an important role in the success of the bands Joy Division and New Order. Remember those super famous and very iconic record covers from Joy Division and New Order (pictured below)? Peter Saville designed those.

Check out the jumper below in comparison to Saville’s work. The press release explains that the “industrial dash print and a two colour dot pattern [are] evocative of early computer cards”. This could be mirroring Saville’s design for the ‘Blue Monday’ record sleeve from New Order, which mimics a first generation floppy disc.

Finally, Norman McLaren was an experimental filmmaker working throughout the 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s. McLaren is from a different movement to the other influencers in the Laurel Wreath collection but in my mind, he’s the most interesting. Check out his work in the excellent six minute video below in which he demonstrates techniques of making sound with images.

It’s a great little film. You can see nods to McLaren’s hand drawn sounds in this Colour Pop Card Wallet from Fred Perry.

So, there it is. Some nice clobber from Fred Perry with a very interesting set of influences and context. Today, I learnt something from Fred Perry. I’ll finish with this nice British Bomber Jacket in royal blue.

The Spring Summer ’13 Collection from Fred Perry Laurel Wreath Menswear is available online here now. Prices are high because all items are made in the UK.

Thanks to Fred Perry and the following for the images…

nuits sans nuit et quelques jours sans jour, Test Pressing, Simply Marvellous, The Red List, Burning the Ground, Arjo Creative Papers, Hunger TV, arkitip and carlosbela.

STOKER and Matthew Goode Last Sunday I got the chance to check out the new indie flick from Fox...

Mon, 11 Mar 2013 13:48:51 +0000

STOKER and Matthew Goode

Last Sunday I got the chance to check out the new indie flick from Fox Searchlight, STOKER, as directed by Park Chan-wook, the mind behind the much renowned 2003 Korean cinema hit OLD BOY.

STOKER is good. It’s entertaining, it’s sexy, it’s classy and most of all impeccably well made. The movie is somewhat of a meticulous study in menswear; it’s worth seeing simply for the costumes alone.

The main focus of the film from a menswear perspective is British actor Matthew Goode who plays the main antagonist; Charlie Stoker. Goode is well cast for the role; he’s very good looking, has a debonair charm and is suitably creepy. Importantly, he carries the costumes perfectly. In a weird kind of way, he creates a kind of sinister ‘M&S model’ character!

Key plot points in the story make good use of apparel… A rather violent act with a belt provides a turning point in the story and Mia Wasikowska’s character of India wears many pairs of rather boyish saddle shoes throughout the narrative.

Director Park’s masterful aesthetics and tight handle on colour are complemented by the carefully considered costumes as designed by styling duo Kurt Swanson and Bart Mueller AKA ‘Kurt and Bart’.

In a recent interview for the great site Clothes on Film, Kurt and Bart explained some of their choices made for Charlie Stoker’s costumes…

“Many of Charlie’s colours were informed by imagery of the plumage and eye colour of some birds of prey. A lot of those goldy browns into that mustard colour of Charlie’s Bottega Veneta sweater are from some of those images.”

Charlie is frighteningly well dressed. I don’t want to spoil the story for anyone, so I can’t completely explain the context. However, if you’ve seen the movie you’ll understand why Kurt and Bart gave Charlie Stoker an innocent clean-cut look “we approached his clothes almost as if it’s his first day out of prep school.”

Of course, just like the movie as a whole, Charlie Stoker has a dark side. Kurt and Bart explain: “We wanted to contrast his darker nature with warm colours and soft textures. Charlie wears a lot of cashmere… blood and cashmere is always a nice combo.”

STOKER is out now, catch it in your local picture house.

Thanks to Fox Searchlight for the images.

H&M for Brick Lane Bikes

Sun, 10 Mar 2013 11:10:56 +0000

For the spring season, popular high street clothing retailer H&M, have just released a capsule collection designed in partnership with Brick Lane Bikes. Not being an avid cyclist, I was a little impassive towards the news, however on closer inspection of the items, I’m actually quite impressed….

Designed by H&M and tested by Brick Lane Bikes, each piece has all the technical details needed for better cycling, with the versatile city cyclist style that can be worn all day long.The 11 piece collection is available in around 180 stores and on-line now.

The most interesting angle is that small technical details in the garments become part of the look of each piece.

The functional rider jacket from the collection is made from water repellent and breathable material, with ventilation holes under the sleeves, presumably to keep the rider dry (externally) from our capital’s inclement weather and dry (internally) from body perspiration; working up a sweat whilst on two wheels. The jacket is cut longer at the back, to keep spray from the back wheel off your bum and inside the jacket there are shoulder straps so that the jacket can be taken off and worn like a backpack; freeing up the arms and allowing the rider space to breath - innovative.

Also in the collection are a pair of functional chinos, the legs of which are cut for slightly bended knees, a reinforced crotch is included (presumably because constant rub and wear from the saddle makes holes in the crotch), and reflective tape seams on the inside leg which are visible when rolled up for extra safety on the roads in low-light conditions.

Brick Lane Bikes tested every piece of apparel to ensure it’s fitness for purpose. This is an ethic that we agree with here at Good Clobber; all items reviewed on this site are throughly tested in the context they were designed for. So hats off to H&M and BLB for putting their new clobber through the paces.

I’m yet to get my hands on the clothes but as London is spotted with H&M outlets, I’m sure to have the opportunity soon. Will report back with a reaction.

As it’s H&M, the items are reasonably priced. Check out the full collection at the H&M website here.

Thanks to H&M for the pictures.

Good haul from TK Maxx

Sun, 03 Mar 2013 11:00:28 +0000

On a recent shopping trip into town I took a quick look into the discount retailer TK Maxx. In the past, I’ve sort of dismissed TK Maxx because they stock some proper weird stuff; all the stock that brands can’t sell through their own outlets. However, I was wrong…

Although it is true that most of the items in TK Maxx are in large or extra large sizes and you’ll need to spend some considerable time in the shop going through everything that’s on offer, there are some good bargains to be found. Check out the image above, all of these shirts and jumpers, from two of our favourite brands, Baracuta and Ben Sherman where only £20 each!

Often, I feel that I own enough blue shirts. But what the hell - it’s Baracuta and it’s only £20 - why not?!

I think it’s likely that a lot of the discounted items from big brands such as Baracuta and Ben Sherman are from last season but I can’t imagine this is a negative for most customers.

I own quite a lot of Baracuta shirts now and the best feature a two-colour embroidered branding logo.

Nice little bits of detail on the Baracuta shirts; a little fabric tab on the felled seam where the front and the back meet at the bottom.

And here we have two cotton crew neck jumpers from Baracuta. The green is actually a much more appealing colour than this - the camera doesn’t quite do it justice.

Two-colour embroidered branding again. These jumpers are great for the office.

Both of the Ben Sherman shirts feature lovely button-down collars and alternative fabric on the inside of the collar stand.

Again, these shirts were selling for the discount price of £20 each.

Nice details on the cuffs. This type of cuff is called a ‘mitre cuff’ - it’s one feature that helps identify a well designed shirt.

If you don’t have a brand of TK Maxx in your local store, it’s probably worth checking out their website. You may find some good items listed there and it’ll save you having to rummage through everything that they have on hangers in store. However, be warned - they turn over stock quickly; if you see something you like, it’s worth grabbing it while it’s there.

Find the TK Maxx website here.

Skyfall and Tab Collars Generally speaking, I’m not a huge James Bond fan but SKYFALL is...

Mon, 18 Feb 2013 21:11:00 +0000

Skyfall and Tab Collars

Generally speaking, I’m not a huge James Bond fan but SKYFALL is worth mentioning: Not only is it the biggest British film of all time, it’s actually rather good. Around the time of it’s theatrical release the media was awash with excessive Bond praise, so I decided not to cover it. However, Skyfall has played quite a significant role in my life in recent weeks because of what I do for a living. The movie is available on Blu-ray and DVD from today (here in the UK).

When I started writing this article, I was going to focus on the Tom Ford suits in general but in researching around the costumes I found out something much more interesting…

There was something I found intriguing about Bond’s shirt collars in the movie: When you come to watch it, notice how perfectly shaped his collars always are. The tips of the collar are always in exactly the right place, regardless of the action

On close inspection of the video you can see that there’s a small diamond shape in the point of the collar. At first I thought this could have been created by collar bones - but these are too long and straight to make this shape. Then I thought the collar points are either weighted or pinned down.

However, according to the best online resource for information on this subject, TheSuitsOfJamesBond.com, which is an excellent site, Bond wears a ‘tab collar’ in Skyfall.

GQ corroborates this fact as well: A shirt with a tab collar is something I’d never heard of before, but stick ‘tab collar’ into Google and you get an image of Daniel Craig in Skyfall.

The tab collar is an ingenious but very simple idea, illustrated well by the image below from The Cufflinks Shop. The points of the collar are drawn close together a piece of fabric, a ‘tab’ that is fastened with a button that I think might be attached to the top of the placket. This is what creates a nice neat finish to the collar that’s hidden by and elevates the tie knot.

I’ve never actually seen a tab collar up close so I can’t confirm that the small diamond shapes that are present in the magnified image above are caused by the tab, but I think it’s very likely. The diamond shape could be the stitching between the tab fabric and the underside of the collar.

In fact, you can actually by the white Tom Ford shirts that Bond wears in the movie. They’re available from Selfridges for the pricely sum of £310 each!

This little detail might seem insignificant, but to me, it’s exciting. A lot has been written about Jame Bond’s attire and there’s not too much new to say about it… This is new. Skyfall is the first Bond movie in which the British spy wears shirts with tabbed collars.

I’m also quite pleased that the niggling feeling about those collars paid off: Almost by accident, I found out that there was a clever little secret hidden away that helps make James Bond look impeccable. Here’s a nice pic of Bond in the National Gallery to finish.

Skyfall is available on Blu-ray and DVD now.

Thanks to MGM, Columbia Pictures, Sony Pictures and Fox Home Entertainment for the images.

Onitsuka Tiger Mexico ‘66 Trainers For a long time I’ve been interested in garnering...

Sat, 09 Feb 2013 13:12:17 +0000

Onitsuka Tiger Mexico ‘66 Trainers

For a long time I’ve been interested in garnering myself a pair of Onitsuka Tiger trainers. In the recent January sales I managed to score myself a pair of classic Mexico ‘66 Onitsuka Trainers for the absolute bargain price of only £30.

It’s been a long time since we’ve had a review on Good Clobber, so it’s high time we revisited this feature. So here it is, my review of the Onitsuka Tiger Mexico ‘66 shoes.

First up, let’s have a very quick look at the history of Onitsuka Shoes: The company, founded in 1949 by former military officer Kihachiro Onitsuka is one of the oldest shoe companies in Japan. Onitsuka made history by introducing a basketball shoe with suction cups on the sole to improve grip; a feature which apparently found it’s genesis when Onitsuka was trying to prise a piece of squid tentacle from the bottom of a bowl.

In 1977 the company was having great success and merged with two other sports apparel manufacturers to become the ASICS Corporation. Despite the name change, the range vintage of shoes are still sold under the name Onitsuka Tiger. This particular style of shoe was originally called the ‘Limber Leather’ but is now called ‘Mexico 66’, a homage to the Japanese pre-olympic trials for the 1968 Olympic Games in Mexico.

So let’s take a look at the shoe. It’s easy to see why they’re popular; they have a sleek and subtle style, they’re not obviously ‘shouty’ and yet they are easily recognisable, mainly because of the classic ASICS stripes on the side. This shape a style has been copied many times but never bettered.

Lightweight and well cushioned, these trainers are comfortable. The leather and suede upper is very flexible and so far they have held a good shape. I wouldn’t recommend them for anything more than everyday use; these aren’t shoes that were made for athletics or outdoor sport. I take a UK size 8 shoe and they fit fine, although I did add an innersole to this pair - just to make them a nice snug fit.

They tend to make your socks ride up around the heel. It’s a strange thing and I’ve never experienced this before in a pair of trainers. I think it may be something to do with the suede tab at the back - or it could just be the socks that I wear. Strange.

Also, be warned; the toes and some of the upper of these shoes are partly made of suede, a material that can look a little worse for wear if it gets wet or dirty. I’d recommend purchasing a suede spray and a good suede brush to keep them looking as new as possible.

This particular pair of shoes are in a grey / red colour way, which is why I think they were on sale - however there are many, many variations available and I don’t think this colour combination are the most popular. I picked up my pair in the sale at the UK high street shop Republic but you can find them in loads of shoe retailers.

I’d recommend these shoes. They look great, they’re comfy and so far they’ve held up well. I dare say I’ll be picking up another pair later in the year - keep your eyes open for sale prices.

Check out the official Onitsuka Tiger website here.

Art Gallery Clothing Spring Summer '13

Wed, 06 Feb 2013 20:59:27 +0000

Regular visitors to this blog may be familiar with Art Gallery Clothing, the great brand that’s heavily inspired by Mod culture. We’ve run a review for in the past and I’m the proud owner of three of their shirts… and very good they are too.

Even though it still feels like winter, we’re starting to see the new lines of spring and summer clothing on sale for the coming warmer months. AGC have released a range of knitwear on their official site and here’s a quick look at what’s on offer.

I really like that each garment seems to have been named after regular blokes, such as ‘Jack’ and ‘Garry’ - makes it feel down to earth and real.

‘Kenny’ and ‘Jack’

‘Alex’ and ‘Lane’

‘Gary’ and ‘Steve’

‘Hutten’

It looks like most of these shots were taken around London’s South bank and Soho; appropriate to the brand’s history.

Prices range between £55 and £75… Sneaky tip - it’s worth keeping an eye on AGC’s twitter feed as they often run promo codes and they have a good eBay site.

Thanks to Art Gallery Clothing. Check out the full range of their clobber here.

Ben Sherman 'Jazz Life'

Mon, 21 Jan 2013 21:26:00 +0000

As a brand, Ben Sherman is perhaps most commonly associated with the genesis of the Mod scene; Britain in the 1960s. However for this year’s Spring / Summer campaign, Ben Sherman has been influenced by America in the 1960s… specifically, the 60’s Jazz scene.

Once again, the chaps wearing these clothes work in the actually work in the Ben Sherman shops; a nice touch by the brand to recognise their staff.

There’s a few items in the collection that include patterns. I’ve spotted (ha ha) a polka dot tie here and check out a few of the nice patterned shirts in the collection.

The shoot took place at some of London’s most iconic recording studios. To be honest, I know nothing about the locations but they make for nice shots, with a relevant theme.

There’s some nice double breasted suits included in the collection and although I’m not too sure that suit jackets with matching shorts ever really work. There’s also a reoccurring detail across high street menswear at the moment that I’m really keen to see the back of; white buttons.

Nice to see that classic polos haven’t been left out. Some of the polos in the collection have a real retro feel.

Pastel colours and some accompanying muted tones for the forthcoming brighter and warmer weather.

One or two classic Ben Sherman checked shirts are hidden away in the photoset as well as some multi-coloured knits.

Check out the full collection at the Ben Sherman site here.

Thanks to Ben Sherman for the pics and info.

The Chelsea Boot

Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:11:52 +0000

Time for another quick look at an important piece of footwear and it’s historical context. This one is of a real Mod classic, a boot that I’ve admired for a very long time; the Chelsea Boot.

The Chelsea boot started life on Queen Victoria’s foot. I kid you not. Invented by the boot maker to Her Royal Highness in 1837, the Chelsea boot utilised the recently invented vulcanised rubber and created a shoe that was easy to get on and off. With elasticated sides and a lightweight sole this short ankle boot has been in the limelight on and off ever since. Initially popular for horse-riding, with many well-to-do Victorian ladies wearing them, they became fashionable up until the First World War.

The 1960s

It wasn’t until the 1960s that they became a wardrobe staple of the average man. Mods like The Beatles were often photographed wearing Chelsea boots to match their sartorial outfits. They initially popularised them along with The Chelsea Set, Mary Quant and Jean Shrimpton, which is where they got their name.

Movies and Media

The shoe of choice for George Lucas’s Stormtroopers in the original Star Wars movies was a Chelsea boot painted white! Chelsea boots were cheaper and available in abundance in the 1970s, so they were ideal and affordable for the many actors who played Darth Vader’s foot soldiers.

Those of you familiar with the Alan Moore and Dave Gibbon’s ‘Watchmen’ comic book; now popularised by Zach Synder’s film of the same name will recognise the character below, ‘Rorschach’. I always liked Rorschach’s costume; he’s supposed to look shabby, but had a snappy sort of style. Notice his Chelsea Boots.

Today

Chelsea Boots experienced a dip in popularity during the eighties, they just weren’t fashionable, but now the Chelsea boot is again at the height of cool. They still connote the mod look; these boots are often seen on alternative music artists like The Arctic Monkeys. When slipped on over the top of a pair of skinny jeans, they are the pinnacle of the smart casual look. They have been seen on the catwalks with slim fit tailored suits, as well as part of the heritage trend with a nod to its equestrian past.

The Chelsea boot is functional, fashionable and stylish and best of all, British. They go with a formal trouser for a sartorial look, and they go just as well with a pair of scruffy jeans for a more indie rock n’ roll look. Wear with a buttoned up polo shirt and a straight leg for a nod to the mod and lots of plaid, sheepskin and tweed if you’re more of the countryside type. Chelsea boots are best in black if you’re wearing with a suit, but if you’re popping a pair of jeans on with them then you could go for any colour. Women’s Chelsea boots have heels, are studded, in velvet, rubber (a la Vivienne Westwood)- all sorts of options, but if you’re a bloke, original is best. Check out Rieker Shoes for affordable, comfortable and yet stylish footwear.

Thanks to the following for the images. Marks & Spencer, DS Dundee, Bally, Jules, Office, Mo Classics, The Guardian Tony Barnett, Arctic Monkeys Forum, Izcool, Comics Anonymous, Contact Music and Mod Shoes.

Diadora and The Casuals

Sat, 12 Jan 2013 16:55:45 +0000

As a blog that’s interested in British sub-cultures, I want to take a quick moment to appreciate some footwear that’s a favourite with The Casuals.

Now, pulling off the classic 1980’s Casuals look is pretty difficult. In wearing a lot of sportswear brands you can skate you very close to a look that carries a lot of urban connotations. With that said, real devotees of the Casuals scene really know their clobber and Diadora is a footwear brand of worthy note.

A couple of years ago, Diadira re-released a fan favourite; the Diadora [Björn] Borg Elite, or ‘Diadora B-Elite’. Stocks of the shoes in white ‘Kangaroo Skin’ were very limited and popular sizes were selling for £250 on E-Bay. Subsequent releases are now sold for much more affordable prices, in classic colours made from leather.

Diadora is perhaps not a brand name that’s a main contender to the likes of Nike and Adidas, however the Italian brand has some interesting history. The name stems from the Greek ‘to share gifts and honours’ and Diadora have been fabricating shoes since 1948. Wearers and advocates of their shoes included British Athelete and London 2012 boss Sebastian Coe and heralded Brazilian racing driver Ayrton Senna.

Diadora has found an almost legendary status amongst trainer-enthusiasts partly because of the commitment of the Casuals scene. The look great in these shots and the good news is that some of their styles are affordable. Check out JD Sports, 80’s Casuals Classics and Size? for shoes from as little as £25 (in the sale). Check out the official Diadora site here.

Thanks to the following for the info and pics. 1883 Magazine, Foot Patrol, Esquire, Nava Blog and Diadora.

Stylish British Men of Note 2012

Thu, 27 Dec 2012 16:45:57 +0000

As the year draws to a close, it’s nice to look back an reflect on what’s happened over the last twelve months. I thought I’d put together a list of what I feel are Stylish British Men of Note 2012. A subject which is perhaps due a little more credit here; the ten gentlemen below offer examples I feel we could all do with following to some extent and represent the styles and attitudes that we’re keen to promote on Good Clobber.

Ben Whishaw

Starting off this list, due mainly to his currently very high profile and the stunning image below, is Ben Whishaw. A British actor who’s appeared in PERFUME and ENDURING LOVE but is perhaps best known now as ‘Q’ in the new James Bond movie SKYFALL, Wishaw has a geeky, British appeal that just works. He really pulls off a great pair of glasses and a cardigan but looks equally at home in a tuxedo or suit on the red carpet. Of note to this blog is that his character ‘Q’ wears a Pretty Green Parka in Skyfall - the British menswear label owned by Liam Gallagher and a garment with a good deal of worthy heritage.

If you didn’t get a chance to see SKYFALL in the cinema, do check it out on DVD or Blu-ray; it is very good. If you’re unaware of the BBC’s THE HOUR; a newsroom drama set in 1965 that stars Wishaw, see if you can track it down. It has a British charm that the likes of MAD MEN can never re-create.

Thanks to Greg Williams / The Womb for the image.

Bradley Wiggins

Winner of the 2012 Tour De France. First Brit to win the Tour De France. Olympic gold medallist. BBC Sports Personality of the year 2012. Wiggin’s sporting achievements are astonishing but he’s also won over the media with is style, intelligence and general good nature. Much has been said of his side burns, Mod hair cut and dress sense. Wiggins has bought the Mod look back into the forefront of men’s fashion. I’m hoping his profile influences the trends for 2013, it’s very chic, it’s very cool and it’s very British.

Thanks to Fred Perry for the image.

Miles Kane

Selected mainly because of this advertising campaign for the Menswear designer John Varvatos, in which he appeared with ‘The Mod Father’ Paul Weller, Miles Kane is very, very cool. Taking influence from the Mods of the 60’s, Kane seems to effortlessly bring the look into a modern age. I’ve no idea how much his wardrobe costs, but it must be very expensive. His solo album’s pretty damn good too.

Thanks to John Varvatos / The Fashionisto for the image.

Dermot O’Leary

The X-Factor might not be the kind of entertainment that we’d endorse here but it can’t be avoided that it’s influence on the UK is pretty big. Co-host of this show and the excellent BBC Radio 2 slot, Dermot O’Leary is a very recognisable and likeable British Male. He’s very well dressed too: An advocate of Baracuta Harrington jackets (a favourite brand here) and winner of the ‘Most Stylish Man 2012’ award from GQ, O’Leary is a total success when it comes to dressing - and his height does not impact on this; an example to us all.

Thanks to Mr. Porter / Daily Mail for the image.

Rafe Spall

Ok, so PROMETHEUS didn’t turn out to be all that we’d hoped for and the character of Millburn was a bit throw-away, but it introduced most of us to the British born son of Timothy Spall; Rafe. Well dressed, understated and by all accounts a generally good guy, I think 2013 is going to be a big year for Spall. I’d wager he’s going to be on the front cover of some men’s glossy fashion magazines soon. I’ve also seen a preview screening of his forthcoming film I GIVE IT A YEAR but I can’t say anything about it yet as it’s embargoed… All I can say is; do go and see it.

Thanks to The Times for the image.

Jake Bugg

Is that second name genuine? Either way, singer/songwriter Jake Bugg is listed here for good reason; he’s bringing the Harrington Jacket (and the associated looks that this blog promotes) back into the public eye. I’ve heard some criticism that Bugg leans too heavily on the influence of Bob Dylan but from what I’ve picked up from him on the radio, this doesn’t matter. Good, sing-along-able tunes about growing up in England are pertinent to the young men of this country and I applaud this attitude along with his dress sense… While we’re on the subject - when’s Jamie T coming back?

Thanks to Glam for the image.

Michael Fassbender

If this is a list of British men, I’m allowed one slight cheat: Fassbender is German-Irish, but he’s so appropriate I have to include him. Fassbender could have been included on a 2011 list but he’s not been far from the public eye this year: With his most prominent appearance as David 8 in PROMETHEUS (a character based on another distinguished icon of yesteryear, Peter O’toole’s depiction of T.E. Lawrence). It’s not hard to find good pictures of him - he’s always so well dressed. An effort to aspire to.

Thanks to Paramount/Momentum/Flicks and Bits for the image

Benedict Cumberbatch

Notable for more of an attitude rather than anything he’s worn in particular; when one thinks of Cumberbatch, one thinks of refinement and elegance. He’s become a superstar this year with the success of BBC’s SHERLOCK and from the sneak peeks we’ve had at him in the new STAR TREK INTO DARKNESS film, Cumberbatch is going to have a considerable presence in 2013.

Thanks to The Radio Times for the image.

Tom Hardy

Arguably 2011 could have been a bigger year for Tom Hardy, with INCEPTION perhaps receiving a slightly better reception than THE DARK KNIGHT RETURNS, however, the below outfit made it’s mark on my memory, partly because the premiere took place in July (summer) and Hardy was wearing an overcoat and gloves! Regardless, he pulled it off nicely.

Thanks to Zimbio for the image.

Andrew Garfield

I haven’t seen THE AMAZING SPIDER-MAN movie but by most accounts, it’s good but not wholly necessary. Nevertheless, I’ve been a fan of Garfiled’s work since THE RED RIDING trilogy. His American accent seems to me to be impeccable also - I think this may be because he’s American born but raised in England (another little cheat). Shot here for ID, Garfield has had a year full of wardrobe wins. Google ‘Andrew Garfield maroon suit’ and you’ll see what I mean. Oh and also - he’s scored Emma Stone as a girlfriend. Killer.

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So that’s who we rate in 2012. There’s a few mentions I’d like to make to gents who didn’t make the list but are still very worth wile:

Dominic West
Damian Lewis
Eugene McGinness
Daniel Craig
Olly Murs (overlook the music)
Gary Barlow (overlook the music)
The Gallagher brothers
Matt Smith

Let me know your thoughts in the comments below and if it’s a success, I can start compiling the list for 2013 from as early as next week!

Who would be in your Stylish British Men of Note 2012 list?

Happy Christmas everyone!

Tue, 25 Dec 2012 22:42:49 +0000

Hope you have a lovely day - from Good Clobber.

(Thanks to CozyHomeChronicles and 7up for the pic)

Last Minute Christmas Gifts

Mon, 17 Dec 2012 22:48:28 +0000

It’s just seven days until Saint Nick squeezes himself down your chimney and you stuff yourself with too much turkey, brussel sprouts and mince pies. If you’re anything like me, you’ve got a lot to do before all the Christmas shopping is complete and the presents are all wrapped up under the tree.

We can’t be much help here with gifts for the whole family, however if you’re having trouble finding a special gift for that special man in your life, here’s a few ideas…

Bear in mind, for the best gifts you might not need to know the size of the man you’re buying for; get something that doesn’t need to depend on a good fit, such as accessories. If you’re not sure what he’s into, get something classy and timeless - if he doesn’t appreciate it now, it’s just good taste that he’ll mature into.

Harris Tweed Accessories from Next

As previewed and given context on the blog early this year, I own two of these items; a pencil case and messenger bag. They’re affordable and classic. Perhaps not the high-end of Harris Tweed goods but really nice items nonetheless. Find them here.

Scooter Socks by Socksteady from Warrior Clothing

What’s Christmas without some socks? These Mod inspired socks are lighthearted yet have a retro feel. A three pack will only set you back about £6 and if you’re a dedicated Modernist, you’ll have a preference between the Vespa and Lambretta. Find them at Warrior Clothing here.

Merchant and Mills Selected Notions Box Set

It’ll be much better than any miniature sewing set that falls out of your cracker, this classy and superbly well presented sewing kit from the excellent Merchant and Mills (see below post) has everything a capable, do-it-yourself garment fixer needs. Ok, so it won’t make you a proper tailor, but this is a very good place to start - just look how nicely presented it is. Find it here for £42.

Casio Silver Digital Watch

A retro classic that’s never really gone out of style, this water proof digital watch from Casio has more functions than a standard analogue, if you need them or not. Right now it’s on sale at Stand-Out.net for only £22. Apparently, the battery lasts for 7 years!

Accessories from Izola

To be honest, Izola is not a brand that I’m too familiar with. However, given that their items are being stocked by the always reliable and honest John Lewis Partnership, I can risk saying that these heritage-inspired grooming and shoe care items must be worth a look. Classic heritage styling and quirky details make me want to take a look next time I’m in the store. Products ranging between £15 and £45, they can be found at John Lewis here.

Thanks to the retailers / suppliers for the images. Good luck with your Christmas shopping!

Oilskin products from Merchant & Mills

Mon, 10 Dec 2012 20:49:32 +0000

A kind friend recently sent me a link to a website for the English independent draper, Merchant & Mills. Their website is an absolute joy; simple, effective and put together by someone with an immensely good eye for design and composition.

The selling of quaint but robust accoutrements and fabrics seems to be their main business; many of which I’m keen to promote here just because they look so damn well made and unique. As you’ll see from the below they specialise in Oilskin products; heavy canvas that’s coated in a layer of linseed oil (generally speaking this is how Oilskin is made). There’s also a really nice ‘tone’ to the company; it feels heritage and reliable and their website carries lots of encouraging slogans for craft-minded people with an interest in quality goods.

This notebook is waterproof and presumably you can use the oilskin jacket on any A6 pad once you’ve filled up the one supplied with all your ideas and sketches. Find it here for £24.

I think this is a do-it-yourself duffel bag; you buy it as a kit and make it up. Find it here for £45.

This oilskin bag might be for the girl in your life, unless you feel confident pulling off a man bag. Again, I think it’s a kit you make up yourself. Find it here for £48.

Finally, this is a sewing kit, also known as a ‘tailors roll’ or ‘hussuf’. If you’re a recent visitor to this blog, you’ll understand why I’m pretty keen to pick one of these up, having taken up shirtmaking as a hobby. That being said, I could imagine this working reasonably well as a jacket for a shaving kit. Find it here for £44.

If you’re struggling for Christmas present ideas for that special someone in your life I’d highly recommend checking out the Merchant & Mills website here.

When I’ve got all my Christmas shopping out of the way, I’m pretty keen to pick up one of these items, so I’ll let you know what happens. Next time I’m down in East Sussex, I’m going to have to pay their shop a visit.

Thanks to Merchant & Mills for the images.

Dr. Martens revisited with ThingLink.com

Wed, 28 Nov 2012 14:42:00 +0000

It’s been almost two years since my field trip to the Dr. Martens factory. Here’s a little revisit to that post made a little bit more fun and interactive with the use of ThingLink.com. Rollover the image below for more content.

Thanks to Dr. Martens for showing me around.